Framing Matters
by Chris A. Paschke, CPF GCF
IEA Newsletter
- Wax-On, September 2010
"Short Base Frames and Mounting"
Continuing
the discussion from last month's article on mounting long base profiles, this
month is about short base profiles. The
essence of a floater frame is to mount a canvas or panel from the front by
attaching it to the frame without benefit of a window overlap as in traditional
framing. For years silicone adhesive was
the "duct tape" of the framing industry. It has been used for everything from mounting
arrowheads in a linen lined box to gluing backing board into a floater frame
(see "Speaking of Silicone", WAX-ON October 2009). As with anything that seems too good to be
true, use of silicone as a viable mounting adhesive in framing has proven to be
too invasive and aggressive for preservation framing, and in many cases has
created irreversible staining and damage to paper art.
Since
framing is a very state-of-the-art industry, use of any adhesive product to
affix art to a floater has been replaced with the use of screws. This method of mounting is considered
non-invasive—even though there are holes created in the panel or cradle
supports—and may be easily reversed by simply removing the screws.
photo 1
Note the silicone adhesive residue remaining on the base of
the frame after removal of the art.
Equal adhesive residue remains on the encaustic panel also.
Long vs. Short
The
lifter platform, or cradle, needs to be about 1/2" wider--on all
sides--than the inner opening of the frame to direct mount to a float frame (photo
2). On long base profiles the screw may be
threaded through the base of the frame directly into the wood (WAX-ON August
2010). With a short base frame there is typically
only 1/4" of panel past the opening (photo 3), so the mounting mechanism
is a screw eye horizontally threaded into the inner edge of the base (diagram
1).
photo 2
If the
platform must be at least 1/2" wider than the opening for a solid float
mount.
The long
base (L) allows the mount to screw through the frame directly into the base.
photo 3
With many
short base profiles the platform may only be 1/4"
wider than
the base. This does not allow for a
direct mount.
diagram 1
Install
screw eye horizontally into inside edge of the frame.
Feed headed
Phillips screw through and into the art or platform.
Assembly
Once
the horizontal screw eyes have been installed, align the art panel and mark the
eyelet opening with a pencil. Make an
indentation in the back of the art panel at each pencil mark with an awl to
help locate the correct location for the screw and affix the panel to the frame
by threading the vertical screws (photo 4).
photo 4
Headed
Phillips screws are placed through the eye screws
and
threaded into the wood.
Enough
screws or screw eyes should be used to adequately hold the board flat against
the base of the frame. So one screw the
center of each side is fine for a small 7x7" frame but a 14x14" frame
should have two or three screw each side.
Remember the frame will not prevent a thin hardboard from warping, but
with an added lifter platform it will help minimize the warp. Plus a wide base profile will help support
the panel much better than a short base profile.
photo 5
Place
screws close enough to hold the board flush against the frame.
When
selecting your floater frame you generally do get what you pay for. An inexpensive, unfinished L-shape profile
made of basswood is lightweight and rather flimsy. Screws can pull out and the frames will twist
and warp right along with the panel or cradle it holds. While a solid maple long base profile is a
hardwood that will better hold its shape and allow for direct mounting, but
will cost 2 to 3 times more.
END
Chris
Paschke, CPF GCF
Designs
Ink
785
Tucker Road, Suite G-183
Tehachapi,
CA 93561
661-821-2188
chris@DesignsInkArt.com
For
more on float frames visit
http://www.DesignsInkArt.com/frames.htm
Article
Archive and Reference Library
http://www.DesignsInkArt.com/library.htm