Framing Matters
by Chris A. Paschke, CPF GCF
IEA Newsletter
- Wax-On, May 2011
"Off With Their Heads!"
Screw eyes, also known as eye hooks or eye screws, are designed as an
all in one piece of hardware which screws into the back of the frame sides for attaching
wire, and although many artists feel rather secure when using them they are not
much better than a sawtooth hanger.
There are many reasons for reconsidering use of eyes.
· When an eye is
twisted into hard woods such as natural maple, solid oak or black walnut
stresses occur at the transition point where the screw meets the eye weakening
it. If too small an eye has been selected for too hard a wood the eye has been
known to twist off from the inserted screw.
· In soft woods
such as pine or reconstituted wood such as MDF—medium density fiberboard—the
threading can create sawdust rather than grabbing the wood grain as it is
inserted which allows for the screw to pull out over time.
· Insertion of a
strong enough eye to hold most standard frames lists the frame away from the
wall while the eye rubs against the wall which can leave a mark on the wall and
if the eye is close to the exterior edge of the frame may by visually
unpleasing.
· Screw eyes also
greatly stress the sides of the frame where they are inserted. They weaken the
wood on particularly thin or narrow frames and if the frame is the least heavy
can actually break out the side of the frame moulding.

photo
1 – Screw Eyes
Regardless
of lightweight short shaft (L) or heavy duty long shaft (R)
the
eye is only as strong as the neck between the threads and the eye
marked
with the arrow.
Proper
Installation
They should be installed about 1/3rd down the back side of the frame on
either side. Mark your point and drill a pilot hole or make an indentation with
an awl, install the eye and add the wire. There is
most definitely a right and wrong way to add wire and next month I will cover
weights and variations of wire. Many
people live under the misconception that the setting of hardware in the exact
location either edge of the backside of a frame will insure level hanging, but
the only thing it does is creates even tension on both sides of the frame. Use of two hangers--rather than one--will
distribute the weight and allow for more horizontal balance.
Alternatives
It
is unlikely a small, lightweight 6x6" encaustic piece will ever have
issues with eyes, but something 24x24" with the added weight of wax can
definitely stress a traditional frame. If an unframed cradle or panel with
float frame are used there is less likeliness eyes will be selected as the
hardware of choice.
Today the most used framing hardware is the D-ring. It lies flat and
although is screwed into place there is no stress point as the neck of a screw
eye. They may be mounted at the proper angle for the wire or vertically to be
hung directly on the wall mount for very heavy art.

photo
2 – D-Rings
D-rings
come in a variety of sizes from the tiny 1/4" (L)
to
the mirror hanger heavy 3" version (R).
For additional information on framing basics
visit http://www.DesignsInkArt.com/library.htm or email me at
chris@DesignsInkArt.com
Copyright © Chris A
Paschke, 2011
END
Chris Paschke, CPF GCF
Designs Ink
785 Tucker Road, Suite G-183
Tehachapi, CA 93561
661-821-2188