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Articles by Chris A. Paschke, CPF GCF CMG
"Drop Spine Shipping Box for Framed Art"
November 1995
Note to readers: This article illustrates
the step-by-step assembly of a reusable drop-spine shipping box. It was
originally designed—and used many years—framed display art used in Seal
Products trade show booth. The drop
spine was the easiest as the lid was always attached, it lay flat when opened
and could be sealed closed with Velcro. I currently use simple hinged boxes for
all my shipping…perhaps a new article is due. Follow the basic steps for the
box base and simply add a single board as the lid.
So when is a box
not made of corrugated cardboard? When
its a foam board shipping box! With the
onset of the holidays comes gift giving and the opportunity for shipping framed
art. In fact, for many galleries this is
often a year round situation, while for framers merely profit potential. Whether or not as a framer you elect to venture
into the "service" of shipping framed pieces is not the subject of
this two part series, but rather how to efficiently build a durable shipping
box that will tolerate today's aggressive carrier handling for those occasional
shipping situations.
SHIPPING
RESTRICTIONS
You are all
probably familiar with the requirements put on us by shipping companies. You know the ones I mean...like being able to
drop-kick or throw a package six feet without damage to the contents.
My local UPS
representative suggests packing all pieces to meet basic insurance
requirements, so that in the event of damage any claims will indeed be
honored. They frown on shipping glassed
art over 8x10" in size, but if precautions are taken will not refuse
shipping.
Basic standard
care procedures include taping the glass to prevent additional damage to art
(if broken), as well as building a 3" cushion from all sides and
corners. These are very logical common
sense suggestions and they should always be initiated when packing to ship.
COMMERCIAL BOXES
There are a number
of companies who specialize in the building of reinforced corrugated shipping
boxes designed with foam lining ready for artwork. They vary in size to accommodate most framed
pieces and may be used more than once. Box costs vary depending upon whether you
offer shipping as a routine service and buy bulk boxes direct, or whether it is
an occasional situation and you elect to purchase them, as needed, from a
retail shipper. These boxes, though may
be used again, can easily run from $40-100, OR you can build them yourself!
BUILDING FROM
SCRATCH
By constructing my
own boxes as needed...I am assured of the ultimate in padded protection
surrounding my art, can offer boxes that are also reusable, reinforce myself as
a full service framer AND increase my profits all in the process. There are numerous ways in which a box may be
constructed for shipping. Most are
indeed built from scratch and therefore customized to the individual piece
being shipped.
WHO NEEDS BOXES?
Galleries are in
the business of selling art then delivering it to the party who bought it. Framers often hand the completed job to their
customer and never need to consider shipping at all. Consider however, if the artwork in question
needs to be shipped to more than one location.
I have a number of
artists as clients who require their completed framed art to be shipped from
place to place. Artists who enter
competition must ensure their art will arrive back to them as safely as it
arrived at the appointed show location.
It helps to make the entire packing process as painless, brainless, and
self contained as possible, especially during juried competitions. Loads of bubble wrap and foam pellets may
indeed protect glassed art from damage, but is a major annoyance for the
receiving department at show locations.
I also do a lot of framing for companies who travel the trade show
circuit and also need their artworks to be easily packed by crews for shipping
onto the next show.
So that's the
when, where and why...onto the how!
MATERIALS
For a one time
shipping, corrugated cardboard remains a good filler, shock insulator and
easily builds into a good shipping box.
Beginning with flat top and bottom pieces cut to proper size, then create four-sided hollow
tubes by folding scored sheets. Boxes
may be quickly assembled meeting all standard shipping suggestions.
Since most of my
constructed boxes require multiple shipping, I prefer building with thick
1/2" foam board, hot glue, clear shipping tape and eggcrate foam. I dominantly construct what is known as a
drop spine box, or one where the lid remains attached or hinged to the bottom
at all times (photo 1, 1A).


MEASURING UP
Though shipping
standards suggest a 3" buffer surrounding the art, since my boxes end up
with doubled 1/2" foam walls lined with eggcrate foam, I feel confident
with 2" to 3" around the art
as a buffer.
From the outermost
extremities of the moulding add 5-6" and cut the bottom board. Measure the thickness of the framed art
adding no less than 2" above and below plus the thickness of the
frame. The photo sample used in this
article was a 2" moulding plus the 4" for a total of 6" of inner
box depth. Cut four box sides the same
as the bottom board dimensions (box length x 6" high).
The lid is then
cut to fit entirely over the completed bottom box when closed, not just as a
same size top piece. This makes all of
the walls a double 1/2" foam thickness.
Because the lid fits over the box bottom, the dimensions of the box lid
will be 1" larger than the bottom and the walls will measure 1/2"
higher or 6-1/2" in this case. Prior
to beginning assembly, check all box pieces to ensure they are properly cut
(photo 2).

photo 2 photo 3 photo 4
GLUE AND
REINFORCEMENT
Assemble the box
bottom by hot gluing the sides and ends onto the solid bottom, butt joining and
trimming the side lengths to fit, check the corners in photo 2. Run a bead of hot glue down all inside seams
of the box, including vertical corners.
Reinforce the outside of the box seams with clear shipping tape wrapping
around the 90 degree edges. Clear
shipping tape is wider and much stronger than the linen tape seen in photo 3.
Once the bottom is
completed, reinforced with the bead of glue and the seams have been wrapped
with tape, assemble all but the hinge end of the box top.
CREATING THE HINGE
Make certain the
hinge piece extends the entire length of the box rather than butt joining
(photo 4). Fit the lid over the bottom,
place the hinge in position and apply the 2" shipping tape to create a
swing hinge (photo 5). Turn the box unit
over, let the hinged end piece to fold down 180 degrees over the edge of a
table and tape the inside of the same end hinge (photo 6). Fold the end piece back into closed position
and temporarily tape it to the bottom box to hold it into position (photo
7). Run a strip of shipping tape along
the seam leaving the last 1/2" of top box walls free of tape.

photo 5 photo 6
photo 7
Open the box by
gently pulling the two halves apart remembering they are now hinged
together. Suspend the box bottom over a
table edge to expose the inner seam for easy taping (photo 8). Place a strip of shipping tape along this
inner seam.

photo 8
photo 9
photo 10
Once the two box
halves are hinged together make certain all seams have been reinforced with one
single piece of 2" wide shipping (photo 9). The assembled box has a solid, reinforced
base box unit which has been hinged to the box top using the end of the box as
a hinge.
LINING THE BOX
Once the box is
completed, check all seams are properly reinforced with tape and hot glue were
applicable. Eggcrate foam is best for
padding the inside of the box because of its contoured design. It more readily conforms to the odd shape of
some mouldings and the slightly recessed glazing material.*
Cut large pieces
of eggcrate foam for the bottom and top of the box (photo 10) and position
using hot glue around the outer perimeter of the foam to hold it fast as the
lid is opened and closed.
The sides of the
box should also be lined with the same foam for cushioning, creating a custom
sized cradle for the artwork it will be shipping. The bottom piece should be cut to fit the
box to size while the top pad should be about 2" smaller around to
accommodate for the side padding and inner box wall.
* This original article was written in
1995. The dark gray acoustic eggcrate—convoluted—foam below is what I have been
using since 2005. It is available from The Foam Factory in 1-1/2" and
2-1/2" thicknesses. I use only the
thicker 2-1/2". It is cheaper,
denser and gives greater support and does not seem to get brittle or turn color
with age.
http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/eggcratefoam.html

IS THIS REALLY ALL
THAT NECESSARY?
Next month I will
go into calculating the price of a customized box as well as discussing types
of materials available. And what about
those scraps?
Building reusable
shipping boxes may not be a viable market for everyone, like they have turned
out to be for me. Like anything else,
maybe you just need to create that market anew.
Talk to art guilds and photo groups in your area, if artwork is being
sent to shows...they need to be sent in something! Why not offer this service too? It may not be framing, but its a nice
diversionary project...and isn't it still protecting the art?
In part two
"Shipping Boxes for Flat, Matted or Unframed Art", I'll build an
alternative sink box for shipping matted but not framed art. I will also complete this series with
additional pricing information for your customized boxes.
END
For more articles
on design or mounting search your desired topic under Articles by Subject.
If you know your specific title check Articles by Title.
Additional
information on shipping boxes is found in my book
Creative Mounting,
Wrapping, And Laminating, 2000
The two most
recent mounting books are
The Mounting
and Laminating Handbook, Second Edition, 2002, and
The Mounting
And Laminating Handbook, Third Edition, 2008.
All books are
available from Designs Ink Publishing through this website.
Chris A Paschke,
CPF GCF
Designs Ink
Designs Ink
Publishing
785 Tucker Road,
Suite G-183
Tehachapi,
CA 93561
661.821.2188
info@designsinkart.com